How to Replace Lower Control Arm Infiniti G35: Safe DIY Guide

Step 1 Confirm the failed component and obtain the correct arm

Inspect the front suspension before buying parts. Look for a torn or separated control-arm bushing, a ball joint dust boot that is split or leaking grease, looseness when the wheel is lifted, or a clunk that changes when the brake is applied. A worn tie-rod end, sway-bar link, wheel bearing, or upper control arm can produce similar symptoms, so do not condemn the lower arm from noise alone.

Check the vehicle identification information and the side being repaired. Compare the new arm with the old one for mounting-hole layout, ball-joint position, bushing orientation, and left- or right-hand fit. If the new arm comes without a ball joint, verify that you have the correct press method and replacement joint before disassembly.

Step 2 Loosen the wheel hardware and raise the front safely

With the car on the ground, loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly, but do not remove them. Place the transmission in Park or in gear, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. If the parking brake operates on the rear wheels, it will not replace proper wheel chocks.

Lift the front of the G35 from an approved central point, then place jack stands under strong chassis or subframe support locations specified for the vehicle. Lower the car onto the stands, gently shake the body to confirm stability, and keep the jack lightly positioned as a backup only if it does not interfere with the work.

Remove the wheel and slide it under the chassis as an additional precaution. Never use a suspension arm or a thin floor pan as the sole support point unless the service information specifically identifies it.

Step 3 Support the steering knuckle and protect nearby parts

Before disconnecting the lower arm, place a second jack under the steering knuckle or another approved support point. Use only light support; the purpose is to prevent the knuckle from dropping or pulling on the brake hose, ABS sensor wire, or axle joint when the arm is released.

Inspect the brake hose and wheel-speed sensor wire where they pass near the control arm. If clips are attached to the arm, release them carefully and note their routing. Do not let the knuckle hang from a flexible brake hose, and do not stretch or twist the ABS wire.

On an all-wheel-drive model, take extra care around the front axle and related hardware. The general sequence is similar, but clearance and fastener arrangements may differ from a rear-wheel-drive G35.

Step 4 Remove the lower ball-joint connection

Clean exposed threads with a wire brush and apply penetrating oil if needed. Remove the cotter pin, if fitted, and loosen the ball-joint nut while keeping a few threads engaged until the taper is released. Replace a removed cotter pin rather than reusing it.

Separate the tapered ball-joint stud from the steering knuckle with a proper separator. A sharp release is normal, but uncontrolled hammering can damage the knuckle, wheel bearing, or nearby threads. If using a separator that bears against the stud, follow its instructions and protect the dust boot.

Once the taper is free, remove the nut and lower the knuckle only as far as the support allows. The ball joint should separate without forcing the brake hose or axle. If it will not release after reasonable pressure, stop and use the correct tool rather than heating or striking components near a bearing, sensor, or brake line.

Step 5 Unbolt the control arm from the chassis

Identify the control arm’s inner pivots and note how any washers, spacers, eccentric hardware, or brackets are positioned. Marking the original orientation can help during reassembly, although marks are not a substitute for an alignment.

Remove the inner pivot nuts and bolts while supporting the arm. A breaker bar may be necessary, but keep your hands clear of pinch points as the arm shifts. If a bolt is seized inside a bushing sleeve, do not repeatedly hammer against the subframe; cutting or professional extraction may be safer than damaging the mounting structure.

After the inner fasteners and ball-joint connection are free, remove the old arm. Compare it with the replacement again. The new part should sit naturally in the same position, with no need to bend the arm, enlarge holes, or force the ball-joint stud into alignment.

Step 6 Prepare and position the replacement arm

Inspect the replacement for shipping damage, correct bushing orientation, complete dust boots, and a properly seated ball joint. If the ball joint is supplied separately, install it with the specified press procedure and retaining hardware before putting the arm on the car. Do not improvise with a vise if the joint must be pressed squarely and you cannot control the force.

Position the arm in the chassis and install the inner bolts and nuts finger-tight. Reconnect the ball joint to the steering knuckle, ensuring the tapered stud is fully seated in its bore. Install the specified new locking nut or cotter pin arrangement, but do not guess at thread-locking products or reuse a prevailing-torque nut when the service information calls for a new one.

A useful way to approach how to replace lower control arm infiniti g35 is to check your progress after each stage.

Keep the arm supported while starting every fastener. If a bolt will not pass through easily, check alignment and bushing orientation; forcing it can cross-thread the nut or damage the new bushing.

Step 7 Tighten the joints in the correct suspension position

Snug the ball-joint hardware and inner pivot hardware, but do not final-tighten rubber-bushed pivots while the suspension hangs at full droop. That position twists the rubber when the car is lowered and can shorten bushing life or alter ride height.

Use a jack under the steering knuckle to raise the suspension to a realistic normal ride-height position. The exact reference is the angle specified by the service manual; the goal is to place the arm approximately where it sits with the vehicle resting on its tires, not to lift the chassis off the stands.

With the arm supported in that position, torque each fastener to the exact specification for your model and hardware. Tighten the ball-joint nut according to the specified procedure, then install a new cotter pin if the design uses one. Never align a castellated nut by loosening it; if the pin hole does not line up, follow the manual’s tightening range or replace the nut as directed.

Step 8 Reattach clips, reinstall the wheel, and lower the car

Restore the ABS wire and brake-hose clips exactly as they were routed. Turn the steering from side to side by hand and check that nothing rubs, binds, or becomes taut. Confirm that the ball-joint boot is not pinched and that the new arm does not contact the wheel or subframe.

Install the wheel and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern until snug. Raise the vehicle enough to remove the stands, lower it carefully, and torque the lug nuts to the vehicle’s specified wheel value. Do not use an impact gun as the final tightening method.

Step 9 Perform a stationary safety check before driving

With the G35 on level ground, compare the repaired side with the other side. The wheel should sit normally in the arch, the steering wheel should not be forced off-center, and there should be no visibly loose nut, missing cotter pin, disconnected clip, or leaking ball-joint boot.

Press the front corner down several times and listen for a sharp clunk or metal-to-metal contact. Start the engine, turn the steering slowly lock to lock without forcing it against the stops, and confirm that the brake hose and ABS wire remain clear. This check does not prove alignment or eliminate every suspension fault, but it can catch an obvious assembly problem before the road test.

Step 10 Road-test gently and arrange an alignment

Drive first at low speed in a quiet area. Apply the brakes lightly, pass over a small smooth bump, and listen for abnormal knocking. The steering should feel controlled, with no sudden pull, binding, vibration, or change in pedal feel.

If the car pulls sharply, the steering wheel is badly crooked, a wheel rubs, or any fastener moves, stop driving and recheck the installation. Once the short test is uneventful, have the front and rear alignment measured by a shop. Removing and installing a control arm can change toe or camber, and an alignment machine is the reliable way to verify the geometry rather than judging it by eye.

Signs that replacement is justified

• Visible separation, cracking, or excessive movement at a control-arm bushing.
• A damaged ball-joint boot accompanied by looseness or play at the joint.
• A clunk that remains after checking the sway-bar links, tie rods, wheel bearing, and brake hardware.
• Uneven tire wear or steering wander caused by suspension movement rather than incorrect tire pressure.
• A bent arm or shifted wheel position after a curb or pothole impact.

A visual inspection alone cannot always identify a worn ball joint. If you are unsure, have the front end checked with the wheel lifted and the suspension loaded or unloaded as appropriate for the suspected component.

Use this final inspection checklist

• Every removed fastener is installed in its original location and tightened to the exact specification.
• Any required cotter pin, locking nut, or one-time-use fastener has been replaced as directed.
• The brake hose and ABS wire are clipped correctly and cannot touch the tire, spring, arm, or axle.
• The ball-joint dust boot is intact, seated, and not twisted or pinched.
• The wheel lug nuts are evenly tightened to specification.
• There is no contact through the steering range or during suspension movement.
• The alignment shop reports acceptable toe and camber readings rather than simply adjusting the steering wheel position.

When pressing a bushing or ball joint is the better option

If the control arm is straight and the manufacturer supplies serviceable bushings or a separate ball joint, pressing individual parts can reduce unnecessary replacement. It requires a press, correct adapters, and accurate orientation marks. A joint pressed in crooked can fail prematurely or damage the arm, so a complete assembled arm is the more practical option for many beginners.

When to stop the repair

Stop if the car cannot be supported securely, the coil spring or knuckle is damaged, a mounting point is cracked, or you cannot identify the correct fastener specifications. Also stop if the replacement part does not match the original or if a brake hose, ABS wire, axle, or wheel bearing was damaged during removal. A suspension failure can affect steering control, so uncertainty is a valid reason to use a qualified shop.