How to install coilovers g35: A Careful DIY Suspension Guide

Step 1 Confirm the kit, parts, and installation plan

Park on a solid, level surface and compare every coilover with the kit’s parts list. Look for four complete assemblies, adjustment spanners, locking collars, replacement nuts or washers, and any brackets or spacers shown in the instructions. Check that the threaded bodies, spring seats, and mounting studs are undamaged and that the adjustment knobs are accessible after installation.

Verify the application against the vehicle identification information, body style, drivetrain, and intended use. An AWD G35 may use suspension components that are not interchangeable with a rear-wheel-drive car, and front and rear assemblies are not interchangeable simply because they look similar.

Measure the current ride height from the center of each wheel hub to the fender lip, and record the measurement with the car on level ground. Photograph brake-line brackets, ABS wire routing, sway bar links, and the orientation of each factory assembly; these references are valuable when the new parts do not look exactly like the old ones.

Step 2 Lift the G35 and remove the wheels

Loosen each wheel’s lug nuts slightly while the tires are still on the ground. Chock the wheels that will remain on the ground, use the factory-approved lifting points or another solid structural point, and raise the vehicle high enough for the suspension to move without resting on the jack.

Place jack stands under strong structural support points identified by the service information. Lower the car onto the stands, then gently test stability by pushing the body at a solid area. Keep the floor jack available as a secondary support for a control arm or knuckle, but never treat a hydraulic jack as a substitute for a stand.

Remove the wheels and place them out of the work area. If the car cannot be supported securely on a level surface, stop; suspension work under an unstable vehicle is not a reasonable beginner task.

Step 3 Free brackets and prepare the factory assembly

Begin at one corner and clean exposed threads with a wire brush. Apply penetrating oil to stubborn nuts, but keep it away from brake pads, rotors, and rubber components. Identify the brake hose bracket and ABS sensor wire bracket attached to the shock or nearby arm; these must be released or carefully transferred so the lines are not stretched.

Support the lower control arm or steering knuckle with a floor jack before removing a bolt that allows it to move. This prevents the assembly from dropping suddenly and reduces load on the fastener. Do not place the jack under a thin dust shield, brake rotor, or other part that can bend.

Before separating a sway bar end link or lower shock bolt, observe how the suspension reacts as the jack rises or lowers. If the bar or arm is under heavy tension, reposition the jack and work slowly. A loaded link can release unexpectedly when its nut is removed.

Step 4 Remove the front factory strut assemblies

At the top of the front wheel well or engine-bay area, locate the factory upper mounting nuts. Loosen them while leaving one nut engaged by a few threads until the lower attachment is free; this keeps the assembly from falling. Do not remove a center shaft nut on a factory spring assembly unless the spring is safely restrained with an appropriate compressor or the complete unit is being handled exactly as the service manual directs.

Remove the lower shock-to-knuckle fasteners and any attached brackets according to the factory procedure. Lower the jack gradually while holding the assembly, then remove the remaining upper nut and guide the strut out through the wheel opening.

Keep the left and right assemblies separate and note which hardware is reused. If a bolt is heavily corroded, rounded, or bent, replace it with the correct grade and specification rather than forcing it back into service.

Step 5 Remove the rear factory spring and shock components

The G35 rear suspension normally separates the spring and damper functions more than the front strut does, so identify which coilover components replace each factory part. Support the relevant lower control arm before removing the rear shock’s lower bolt and the fasteners at its upper mount.

Lower the arm slowly until the factory spring is no longer compressed. Keep your hands clear of the spring seats while lowering it, and remove the spring only when it is loose and stable. If it remains trapped or visibly loaded, raise the arm slightly and reassess rather than prying it out.

Remove the rear shock assembly and inspect the upper and lower rubber mounts, spring isolators, and hardware. Some coilover kits reuse one or more of these pieces, while others replace them; follow the kit diagram instead of transferring parts automatically. A useful way to approach how to install coilovers g35 is to check your progress after each stage.

Step 6 Prepare and set the coilovers before installation

Place the new assemblies beside the factory parts and compare overall length, mounting holes, brackets, and stud spacing. Confirm that the threaded collars turn smoothly and that the locking collars can be tightened with the supplied spanners. Lightly clean exposed threads if necessary, but do not coat them with a lubricant unless the manufacturer permits it.

Set an initial ride height close to the factory measurement or the manufacturer’s recommended baseline. Use the coilover’s intended adjustment method: many designs change height by moving the lower mount on the threaded body, while others use the spring perch. Do not obtain extra lowering by loosening the spring until it can move freely when the suspension is unloaded.

Spring preload is the amount of compression applied to the spring when the suspension is at full droop. Unless the instructions specify another setup, the spring should remain properly seated with the suspension unloaded and should not be loose enough to rattle. Excessive preload or extreme lowering can reduce travel and create harshness, bottoming, or unsafe geometry.

Step 7 Install the front coilovers and reconnect the hardware

Guide the front coilover into the wheel well and start the upper nuts by hand. Do not fully tighten them yet. Align the lower mount with the steering knuckle and install the lower bolts and nuts in the orientation specified by the kit or factory manual.

Reconnect the brake hose bracket and ABS wire bracket exactly as they were routed. Turn the steering from lock to lock by hand and check that the hose and wire do not pull tight, rub on the spring, or pass inside the tire’s path. If the kit includes an adjustable camber plate, keep its initial setting centered unless the instructions provide a different baseline.

Use the floor jack to support the knuckle or lower arm at approximately normal ride height before final-torqueing any bushing-mounted fastener. Rubber bushings can be twisted and prematurely damaged if their inner sleeves are clamped while the suspension hangs at full droop. Follow the factory torque sequence and values rather than relying on feel.

Step 8 Install the rear coilovers and reconnect the suspension

Position the rear coilover or separate rear spring and damper components according to the supplied diagram. Make sure the spring ends sit fully against their upper and lower seats, and confirm that any isolators are installed in the correct orientation.

Start all upper and lower fasteners by hand before tightening any one connection. Raise the lower control arm with the jack to align the bolt holes, but do not use the jack to force a misaligned part into place. A mismatch can indicate an incorrect side, an unseated bushing, or a coilover set for another chassis.

Reattach sway bar links, brake-line brackets, and ABS wiring. Check that the rear spring, damper body, and adjustment hardware clear the control arms and axle components through the available travel. Torque the fasteners only to the applicable factory or manufacturer specification.

Step 9 Set equal initial height and tighten the locking collars

With all four coilovers installed and the wheels still off, compare left-to-right collar positions using a tape measure or thread count. The measurements do not need to match a factory reference perfectly, but the two sides of the same axle should begin close to equal unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise.

Make sure each adjustment collar is fully seated against its mating surface and tighten the lock collar with the supplied spanner. Do not strike the collar with a hammer or chisel; damaged threads can prevent reliable adjustment and may make later service impossible.

Leave damping adjusters at the manufacturer’s recommended middle or baseline setting if the kit has them. Damping changes how quickly the suspension moves; it does not correct a coilover that is installed at the wrong height or has inadequate clearance.

Step 10 Reinstall the wheels and lower the car carefully

Reinstall each wheel and start the lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading. Snug them in a crisscross pattern while the vehicle is still supported, then lower the car until the tires touch the ground and torque the lugs to the vehicle’s specified value.

Remove the stands only after checking that no jack, tool, or loose part remains beneath the car. Lower the G35 completely and roll it forward and backward a short distance, or gently bounce each corner, to help the suspension settle into its seats.

Measure hub-center-to-fender height again at all four corners. If a side is substantially different, check for an unseated spring, incorrect collar position, mismatched components, or a suspension arm that was not properly supported during assembly.

Step 11 Inspect clearance and perform a slow initial check

With the car on the ground, turn the steering from full left to full right while watching the front tires, springs, brake hoses, ABS wires, and adjustment hardware. Inspect the rear suspension as well, looking for contact with the tire, inner fender, control arm, sway bar, axle, or damper body.

Check clearance again with the suspension compressed as far as practical without placing yourself under an unsupported vehicle. A helper can slowly move the steering while you watch, but no one should put hands near a moving tire or loaded suspension joint. Understanding how to install coilovers g35 also means recognizing the limits of the method.

Start the engine and listen while moving the car a few feet. Clunks, grinding, tire scraping, or a steering wheel that does not return normally are reasons to stop immediately and recheck the installation.

Step 12 Complete the installation with an alignment and final torque check

Drive only slowly around the driveway or shop area for the first movement, then recheck accessible fasteners and look for anything shifting or leaking. If the car pulls sharply, the steering wheel is dramatically off-center, or a tire rubs, do not continue to a normal road test.

Schedule a professional four-wheel alignment after the ride height is finalized. Changing ride height changes camber, toe, and suspension geometry; toe that is far out of specification can damage tires quickly and make the car unstable. Tell the alignment technician the target ride height and whether the coilovers include adjustable camber plates.

After the alignment, perform a short, low-speed road test on a familiar road. Gradually check braking, steering response, bumps, and turning clearance. Return to the shop or driveway for another inspection and recheck wheel lug torque after the first drive and again according to the wheel manufacturer’s guidance.

Factory mounts, camber plates, and replacement hardware

Some kits are designed to use factory rubber mounts, which generally preserve more noise isolation. Others use pillow-ball top mounts or camber plates that provide adjustment but can transmit more road noise and vibration into the cabin.

Never mix a factory upper mount, spacer, washer, and supplied top nut unless the instructions specifically show that combination. The wrong stack height can preload a bearing, leave insufficient thread engagement, or allow the mount to loosen.

Why an extremely low setting can hurt handling

A G35 that is lowered too far may ride on bump stops, rub the tires, lose suspension travel, or develop poor roll-center and bump-steer behavior. A car can look level while performing worse because the dampers have very little usable movement.

Start near the manufacturer’s recommended height and make small changes only after confirming alignment and clearance. If the car is used on public roads, maintain enough clearance for speed bumps, driveways, emergency braking, and normal suspension compression.

When noise is not a harmless settling sound

A brief movement noise while a newly installed spring settles can occur, but repeated metallic knocking, a sharp pop during steering, or a sound that grows with speed deserves inspection. Loose upper hardware, a poorly seated spring, or contact between the damper and suspension can become a safety problem.

Raise the car safely and inspect only after the suspension is supported correctly. If you cannot identify the source without placing yourself near a loaded spring or unsupported vehicle, have a qualified technician examine it.

When the car feels unstable after lowering

Check alignment before changing damper settings. Excessive toe change, mismatched ride height, tire contact, or a loose control-arm fastener can cause instability, while a very stiff damper setting can make the tires skip over rough pavement.

Return the coilovers to the manufacturer’s baseline settings and confirm that the final ride height still leaves usable travel. If alignment cannot be brought within a sensible range with the available adjustment, the height or suspension geometry may need correction rather than more adjustment.